CARRETERA AUSTRAL ROAD TRIP: 14 Incredible Places to Visit Along the Way

In the distance, a dusty, twisting road stretches south.

Somewhere between mountains, rivers, and who knows how many potholes, it climbs, drops, and curves toward the edge of the world. It’s partly paved but mostly gravel, giving it that extra charm.

Pisco (our van) cruises along—sometimes smoothly, sometimes bouncing, and occasionally creakingly complaining about all those giant holes.

In the morning, you’re crossing a mountain pass with snow-capped peaks; by afternoon, you’re rolling through vibrant green valleys; and tomorrow? Maybe across yellow-green steppes or skimming the edge of a fjord surrounded by dense rainforest.

Welcome to the Carretera Austral.

_{Don’t have time to read through this now? Save it to your Pinterest for later!}

---

A Few Words About the Carretera Austral

The Carretera Austral road trip is one of those legendary drives you put on your bucket list of things to do before you die—1,200 km of wild, breathtaking, and, let’s be honest, bumpy Chilean Patagonian terrain.

It stretches all the way from the coastal port of Puerto Montt to the tiny village of Villa O’Higgins, deep in the Chilean wilderness.

And although Carretera Austral translates into “Southern Highway,” this Patagonian highway is anything but that.

I like to say that driving the Carretera Austral is part road trip, part adventure, and completely worth the bumps. If you want to drive the whole thing, get ready for a few ferry crossings—four, to be exact.

Construction of the road began in 1976 with the goal of connecting remote communities in this part of Chile, but the final 100 km leading to Villa O’Higgins wasn’t opened until 2000.

And guess what?

They’re still constantly working on it—smoothing rocks, laying asphalt, and filling potholes (er—well, trying to). It seemed like road maintenance is a full-time gig here.

Besides tourism, that is.

No, road-tripping the Carretera Austral certainly wasn’t on their minds when they built the road, but the sheer beauty of the wilderness and its remoteness have been drawing all kinds of travelers—from overlanders (like us) to cyclists, backpackers, and hitchhikers. We met so many of the latter, even in late autumn!

And honestly, no wonder why—from hanging glaciers and dense (and cold) rainforests to majestic mountains and stretches of nothingness as far as the eye can see, this part of Chilean Patagonia is truly incredible.

Now, I don’t want to make this another 6,000-word post (er—yep, guilty of that from time to time). So, here are the places along the Carretera Austral that are worth every pothole!

PLACES TO INCLUDE IN YOUR CARRETERA AUSTRAL ROAD TRIP

A note: We were overlanding South America and hit the Carretera Austral in the lower quarter, near the town of Puerto Guadal. We headed south first, before heading north toward Puerto Montt, so these places are listed from bottom to top. Also, we certainly haven’t visited every national park we have passed … but you could! 😉 If we were to re-do this road trip (and I want to!), I’d certainly include at least a few more!

Need some visual inspo? Here’s a video from our Carretera Austral adventure!

VILLA O’HIGGINS

This is as far as you can get on this famous Ruta 7 road trip because this is where Chile quite literally runs out of road. 😄

It’s remote, quiet, and surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery.

Picture snow-capped mountains, deep blue lakes, and dense forests—all combining to make this place feel truly off the beaten path.

There isn’t a whole lot to do here, but the location itself is what makes it special. The most famous attraction around here is the O’Higgins Glacier, one of the largest in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. You can hop on a boat tour and get up close to this stunning hunk of ice!

A disclaimer: we didn’t make it this far. Do I regret it now? Absolutely. (I might still convince my husband to go back and drive the Carretera Austral with our 4×4 van! 😄). I mean, the feeling of complete remoteness, misty waterfalls, hidden spots like Lago Cisnes, and the satisfaction of reaching the end of the road—literally labeled “fin de Carretera Austral” on Google Maps—all make me wanna punch myself in the face for not going all the way.

But back then? It was late fall, cold and rainy, we were in an old, uninsulated van, and we had a flight to catch in Santiago to head to Easter Island. So, yeah, after months of traveling, this “detour” was a hard NO for us. 🤷‍♀️

CALETA TORTEL

Now picture this: a tiny village wedged between fjords, hidden in a thick fog that sticks around until noon.

Located along the coast where the Río Baker meets the sea, Caleta Tortel is so remote that until 2003, you could only get here by boat.

Yep, no road at all.

Now, there’s a short one that connects it to the Carretera Austral, but once you arrive, forget driving around.

There are no streets—just wooden walkways! The whole village is built on stilts, and to get anywhere, you’ll be tiptoeing across those boardwalks. I mean, I felt like we walked into a movie set up or something!

But the real highlight? The “tour guides.”

I’m talking about the four-legged, furry kind. 🐕

At first, they seem TERRIFYING— and this is coming from someone who is obsessed with dogs and carried dog food in our van the entire time we were in South America!

But it turns out, these pups are just fighting for your attention. You see, the stray/village dogs have this… system.

They’re split into two groups that literally fight when a traveler arrives, and whichever group wins gets to pick one dog among them as your guide for the day.

I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it.

This lovely pup walked us around the village, and even joined us on a hike to the hill above Caleta Tortel. These dogs are legit guides (confirmed by locals!) — they trot ahead, wait while you snap photos, bark if you head in the wrong direction, and expertly navigate muddy patches.

Their payment? A treat or two, of course.

Not a bad deal for a free walking tour, right? You bet that pup got a double portion of kibbles from me! 🙂

RIO BAKER & RIO NEFF CONFLUENCE

If there’s one river—besides the Soča River in Slovenia—that’ll make you question reality, it’s the Río Baker in Chile.

Its turquoise blue-green color is so intense that it looks almost fake in person, and in photos, it seems like someone cranked up the “color saturation” button to the max.

The river starts from Lake Bertrand on the eastern side of the Northern Patagonian Ice Field, then flows through Patagonia, eventually flowing into the Pacific near Caleta Tortel. The crazy color comes from glacial sediments, and just a little downstream from Puerto Bertrand, at Confluencia, it meets the milky-brown, sediment-heavy Neff River.

The two mix into a swirling, roaring mess of brown and blue.

We spotted this place thanks to a small sign on the road (though, yeah, it’s on Google Maps too, but we didn’t bother to check, lol), and I’m so glad we did!

It’s hands down one of my favorite hidden gems on the Carretera Austral!

Puerto Bertrand is also a popular starting point for rafting on the Río Baker, but since we were visiting in the late shoulder season, everything was already closed, of course. 😅

LAKE GENERAL CARRERA

Lago General Carrera, shared between Chile and Argentina, is the largest lake in Chile and the second largest in South America.

A road that crosses from Argentina into Chile runs along the southern shores of the lake, and I’ve got to say, this was probably one of the most scenic drives in Patagonia. Its wild beauty, especially when framed by the snow-capped Andes, makes Lago Carrera one of the most stunning natural wonders in all of Patagonia. In my humble opinion, of course. 🙃

We camped by the shore for a few days when it warmed up a bit and just enjoyed in the beauty of doing absolutely nothing—except soaking in the views, of course.

PUERTO RIÓ TRANQUILLO 

On the western shore of Lago General Carrera lies a town named Puerto Río Tranquilo (which translates to “Calm River Port”), that for sure lives up to its name.

This chill little town has a vibe so slow it feels like you’ve stepped back into the 1950s.

Need your laundry done? Just walk a couple of streets from your accommodation and knock on a neighbor’s door.

Want some meat? A neighbor three houses down runs a butcher shop on the ground floor, and you can get fresh cinnamon rolls from a lady across the street.

It’s cozy, sleepy, and the perfect spot to unwind for a few days during your Carretera Austral road trip.

We rented a rustic cabin with a fireplace, read books, baked chestnuts and cookies, and had the perfect cabin getaway experience in the middle of Patagonia (er—while it poured rain the entire time).

I don’t have pretty pictures, but here are a few Instagram story screenshots as a proof! 😄

Puerto Río Tranquilo might be a tranquil getaway, but it’s become famous for two breathtaking natural attractions that you’ll definitely want to add to your Carretera Austral bucket list.

MARBLE CAVES 

The Marble Caves (or Capillas de Mármol) are these epic rock formations that have been carved out by water over thousands of years.

They sit on the shore of Lago General Carrera, with their white-and-yellow marble walls glowing in the sunlight. And the water around them? You guessed it—ridiculously blue.

One of the caves even has the nickname “The Cathedral” because, well, it kind of looks like one.

A boat tour to the caves (up to 8 people) costs around 10,000 CLP per person (around 12€), and kayak rentals (with a guide, because the currents are super unpredictable and the water is freezing) are also available. Renting a kayak will set you back about 35,000 CLP per person, but paddling under the mighty arches of the cathedrals—especially in the summer—must be an unforgettable experience.

In fact, we met a group with kayaks, and I was pretty envious. But when you’re on a year-long honeymoon around the world and you end up buying a van in Chile, er—budgeting becomes a thing. 😅

EXPLORADORES GLACIER

In Puerto Río Tranquilo, you can book a one-day trek to the Exploradores Glacier. The tour lasts the entire day (including the drive to the starting point, hiking to the glacier, exploring the ice caves, and then heading back). You’ll spend several hours trekking the glacier itself.

The price has skyrocketed in recent years (around 100€/person if booked on the spot, more if you want to book a tour in advance), but if you’ve ever wanted to explore natural ice caves, this is one of the rare places on Earth where you can do it!

We were all set to splurge, but the rain just WOULDN’T stop.

And the idea of hiking in heavy rain all day? Yeah, not exactly what we had in mind for a fun glacier adventure.

Chestnuts and cookies, y’all, chestnuts and cookies.

VILLA CERRO CASTILLO 

Villa Cerro Castillo is where hikers gear up to tackle the mighty Cerro Castillo—a towering rock formation that looks suspiciously like a medieval castle. Well, Castillo literally means “a small castle”, so I don’t know what else I expected.

The hiking trail leads you to a stunning blue lagoon below the “castle,” but here’s the catch: it’s a 1,100-meter elevation gain, and it’ll take you about six hours round trip.

So yeah, this hike is certainly no walk in the park, but if you love hiking to mountain lakes and are all about those epic views, this one’s a must-add to your Carretera Austral road trip itinerary.

Just keep in mind that the trail can already be closed by April due to snow! Yeah, you guessed it, this happened to us. 😟 I guess there’s always next time?

Like many hikes in Chile, there’s an entrance fee (a concept we Europeans sometimes find hard to grasp…)—about 10,000 CLP (12€ per person).

PAREDÓN DE LOS MANOS

Just outside of Villa Cerro Castillo, you’ll find a rock wall known as Paredón de los Manos, which is basically an ancient high-five mural.

Er—or, if you want the official explanation, an archaeological site with handprints dating back over 10,000 years.

In both Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia, there are several places where these colorful handprints were found on cave walls. No one’s totally sure why these early artists left their mark, but it’s a pretty cool thing to see! The short educational trail from the parking lot to the site also has info about the local flora and fauna, so all in all, this was an interesting morning!

Fun fact: the landscape you’re walking through was once covered by a kilometer-thick glacier! Wild, right?

Entrance fee: 2,000 CLP (about 2€).

VILLA MAÑIHUALES

Villa Mañihuales might seem like just another sleepy village along the Carretera Austral, where, outside the main season, even finding an open shop with empanadas or instant Nescafé can be a challenge.

But there’s actually a fun little attraction here that’s worth a stop.

Right in the middle of the village, you’ll find an urban park Las Lavanderas with wooden bridges and tons of carved wooden sculptures scattered among picnic areas.

It’s like a quirky playground for both kids and, well, anyone who’s still young at heart. We probably spent way too much time here! 😄

QUELAT NATIONAL PARK 

As you descend from the pass, where the Carretera Austral winds its bumpy gravel path through dense rainforest, heading toward the fjord in the direction of Puyuhuapi, you’ll reach Queulat National Park on your right (well, if you’re driving from south to north).

Walking through the park’s trails feels like navigating a cold, misty version of the Amazon.

The trees are so densely packed that it almost feels like twilight, even in the middle of the day.

Thanks to the constant rain (because it’s Patagonian fall, after all), mist hangs between the branches, creating a moody, almost otherworldly vibe. And as you hike, the soft thud of your boots is muffled by the wet ground as you leap over puddles and carefully navigate the rocky steps and muddy patches. I absolutely loved it!

But the real highlight? The Ventisquero Colgante, or The Hanging Glacier.

This stunning glacier looks like it’s teetering on the edge of a cliff, just about to crash into the lagoon beneath at any moment. Surrounded by waterfalls, the Hanging Glacier is easily one of the most epic sights you’ll find along the Carretera Austral.

The hike to the lagoon isn’t long, and the entrance fee is 11,000 CLP for foreigners or 5,000 CLP for nationals (or foreigners with a Chilean tax number, which Bojan had, because he needed to obtain it to buy a Chilean van).

CHAITÉN & PUMALÍN NATIONAL PARK

Heading further north on the Carretera Austral road trip, you’ll reach the town of Chaitén—famous for its dramatic backstory. In 2008, the nearby Chaitén Volcano erupted, covering the town in ash and forcing a complete evacuation.

I mean, the story gave me Pompeii vibes all the way. Thankfully, in this case, there were no casualties!

These days, the tiny town is making a comeback, but the effects of the eruption are still visible, giving the place a slightly eerie vibe (in the best way possible).

Above the town, you can hike up to the Chaitén Volcano itself—a 3-hour round trip that takes you right to the edge of the crater, where you can still see steam rising from the ground.

It’s not every day you get to hike an active volcano, right? We did that during our two weeks in Guatemala, but Chaitén?

I’ll remember it for something else entirely.

We stayed in a lovely cottage with a fireplace for an entire week, and if I said I spent most of the time curled up in bed reading, I wouldn’t be lying. But, unfortunately, that reading was in between trips to the bathroom—I got an E. Coli infection, and that was the worst travel week of my life (until then*). With ER visits and all.

*I say “until then” because last year in Bali I got dengue fever, which quickly claimed the top spot for the most horrible experience of my life.🫣

Okay, where was I?

I got carried away by heaps of side stories again, I see. #neurodivergent 😄

What I meant to say is that Chaitén is a lovely town to stop in on your Carretera Austral road trip. Besides hiking to the active volcano, you can also explore the stunning Pumalín National Park, one of Chile’s most impressive conservation projects.

The park, which stretches from the coastline deep into the mountains, is home to everything from dense rainforests to steep granite walls and gorgeous waterfalls.

Even if you’re not up for a multi-day trek, Pumalín has tons of shorter hiking trails, some of which lead to hidden waterfalls and ancient Alerce trees (think sequoia cousins). Some of these giants are over 3,000 years old!

We did a short hike after I recovered from the infection, and honestly, it felt like stepping into a Snow White fairytale—I kept waiting for those gnarly, enchanted trees to open their eyes and start talking 👀

Pumalín National Park is the perfect spot to stretch your legs before tackling the final stretch of the almost-magical journey through Chilean Patagonia.

Entrance fee: Free!

FERRY BETWEEN CALETA GONZALO & HORNOPIRÉN

If you’re doing the full Carretera Austral road trip (and trust me—you totally should!), the ferry between Caleta Gonzalo and Hornopirén (actually, there are two—one short and one longer) is one of those experiences that turns a basic transportation option into a full-blown travel experience.

It’s not just about getting from A to B—it’s a jaw-dropping cruise through fjords (which, by the way, is usually a ridiculously expensive thing to do in Patagonia).

As the ferry glides through still, glassy waters that perfectly reflect the dramatic scenery, you’re surrounded by towering peaks, waterfalls cascading down cliffs, and lush forests. It’s freakin’ unbelievable, and I’m pretty sure this is one of the most scenic ferry rides you’ll ever take.

The ride takes around 4-5 hours, depending on the schedule and sea conditions, but trust me, you won’t mind the time. Keep an eye out for dolphins that sometimes pop up alongside the boat!

Oh, and a pro tip: pack some snacks and layers. The chairs on the ferry are comfy, and there’s plenty of space, but the air conditioning was cranked up to madness levels!

THE CARRETERA AUSTRAL ITSELF

You know how they say, “It’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey”?

I mean, that couldn’t be more true in this case—the Carretera Austral road trip isn’t just about ticking off famous spots.

It’s about the road itself.

These 1,200 km of potholes, gravel, and occasional tarmac take you through some of the most diverse, jaw-dropping landscapes you’ll ever see. One minute you’re cruising past a fjord, the next you’re bumping along between mountains that stretch to the sky.

To me, it felt like Patagonia can’t decide what it wants to be, so it just throws everything at you—and leaves you absolutely gaping.

So, keep your camera ready and make plenty of stops! There is no rushing here.

Freakin’ unforgettable.

Happy Vagabonding!

Read more Chile travel guides!